You have started using minoxidil, and since then your scalp has been itchy, your hair looks greasy first thing in the morning… and you are wondering if the treatment is right for you. What if the problem isn’t the minoxidil, but the form you are using?
Lotion or foam: the molecule is the same, but the daily experience can be radically different. We explain everything.
Did you know? Minoxidil wasn't made for hair
Originally, minoxidil is a medication for high blood pressure, taken in tablet form. Doctors noticed an unexpected side effect in their patients: hair and body hair growing more. The idea of applying it directly to the scalp was born from there.
Applied topically, it prolongs the hair growth phase and promotes micro-circulation around the follicle. Result: hair loss slows down and thinned hair can regain thickness.
The real difference: an ingredient no one looks at
In both the lotion and the foam, the active molecule is exactly the same. What changes is what surrounds it.
The lotion generally contains propylene glycol, a solvent that helps minoxidil penetrate the scalp. The problem: it irritates some users. Itching, redness, dandruff… Many people blame the minoxidil, when this excipient is often the real culprit. It also tends to leave hair flat and greasy.
Source: Siriraj Hospital Study: 5% minoxidil and propylene glycol sensitivity
The foam, on the other hand, is formulated without propylene glycol. It dries faster, does not grease the hair, and is generally better tolerated. Be careful though: it contains a lot of alcohol and can cause tightness on a very dry scalp.
Source: RCP Alostil 5% foam (ANSM)
Good to know: there are now also lotions without propylene glycol. An Italian study showed that they were very well tolerated, with minoxidil penetration comparable to conventional lotions. An interesting option if you prefer the precision of the pipette.
3 signs that your lotion is not right for you
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Your scalp itches or turns red after application.
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You notice dandruff appearing that you didn't have before.
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Your hair is greasy and flat a few hours later.
If you recognize yourself, talk to your pharmacist: changing the form might be enough to make the treatment much more pleasant.
Which one is more effective?
Good news: both forms provide comparable results.
A large, one-year study conducted on women compared 5% foam (one application per day) to 2% lotion (two applications per day). After 24 weeks, the foam resulted in an average gain of 23.9 hairs/cm², compared to 24.2 hairs/cm² for the lotion. Which is to say, effectively the same, with one less application per day for the foam.
Source: Blume-Peytavi et al., J Drugs Dermatol, 2016 (Phase III study)
The real difference lies in comfort. In another study, 16% of women on foam reported significant itching, compared to 39% on lotion. Only 5% complained of dandruff, compared to 18% with the lotion. The participants also preferred the foam, which they found less bothersome for styling.
Source: MDedge: Women Prefer 5% Minoxidil Foam for Alopecia
Keep in mind: the best form is the one you will apply every day for months. A treatment that itches often ends up at the back of a drawer.
Women: be careful, in France it is not the same thing
This is the point that many articles forget. In France, 5% minoxidil, in both foam and lotion, is reserved for men. The package inserts state that it is contraindicated for women.
Sources: Vidal: Alostil 5% foam · Minoxidil Mylan 5% insert
The main reason: the risk of unwanted facial hair growth, which is more frequent at 5%. For women, the option available in pharmacies is therefore 2% lotion. For any other formula, it is up to your dermatologist to decide.
Source: Pharmao: Minoxidil 5%, pharmacist's opinion
How to apply it correctly
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Always on a dry scalp, directly on the skin, not on the lengths.
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Lotion: 1 ml with the pipette, parting the hair row by row.
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Foam: half a capful (1 g) placed on the fingertips. Tip: run your fingers under cold water first, otherwise the foam melts before reaching the scalp.
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Wash your hands thoroughly afterwards to avoid unwanted facial hair.
Source: Vidal: Alostil 5% foam
What you need to know before starting
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Hair loss may increase at first. This is called "shedding": hair at the end of its cycle falls out to make room for new growth. It is confusing, but it is often a sign that the treatment is working.
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You have to be patient. The first results usually appear between 3 and 6 months.
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It is a maintenance treatment. If you stop, the hair gained will eventually fall out again.
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Some precautions: healthy scalp only, not during pregnancy or breastfeeding. And if you have pets, be careful: minoxidil is very toxic to them.
So, lotion or foam?
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Are you a woman? 2% lotion remains the standard in pharmacies.
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Sensitive scalp or hair that gets greasy quickly? The foam (for men) or a lotion without propylene glycol will be more comfortable.
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Small budget or precise area to treat? Conventional lotion is cheaper and more precise.
Your questions
- Can you switch from lotion to foam during treatment?
Yes, it is the same molecule. Just ask your pharmacist for advice on adjusting the dose. - Is the foam less effective without propylene glycol?
No, studies show similar results. The difference is mainly in comfort. - Can it be applied to wet hair?
No, always on a dry scalp, to prevent the product from running onto the forehead and face.
Our natural alternative: the 360° Routine
Do you prefer a minoxidil-free option? Our 360° Routine acts on hair loss both from the outside and the inside:
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Thickening Shampoo No.1: to gently cleanse the scalp.
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Anti-Hair Loss Serum No.1: to directly target weakened areas.
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Dermastamp No.1: to stimulate the scalp and optimize the serum's action.
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Grow No.1: the supplement that supports your hair from the inside.
Four steps, one routine, a natural approach.
This article is provided for informational purposes and does not replace the advice of a healthcare professional. Minoxidil is a medication: ask your pharmacist, doctor, or dermatologist for advice before starting treatment.